PGM 2019 new designed full line Industry Grade Dress Forms system with legs, double functions, much help designer's draping work of lingerie, swim suit, body suit, pants, ...., by simply inserting pole through leg or through center of form.

This new designed full line Industry Grade Dress Forms system, not only with collapsible shoulders, but also with legs, this double functions much help designers draping work by easily insert poles through center or through legs, ideal for design lingerie system, pants or swim wear systems.
  

This double function Dress Form with legs and collapsible shoulders, include Female Dress Form, Male Dress Forms, Young Men Dress Form, Plus Size Large Women Dress Forms.  All Dress Forms are with 100% aluminum base stand, easily to adjustable the height of the form at your preferable height by simply stepping down the foot pedal.

PGM Dress Forms are three-dimensional model used for pattern making design and dress style design. When making a piece of garment, dressmakers use Dress Forms to work with garment pieces to construct clothes fitted for specific size.

Dress Form is the requirement for every sewer, so they can fit, drape and make adjustments and alterations tailored for their specific need.  Education institutions used Dress Forms to teach fashion students the fundamental of pattern making and draping.

PGM accept custom made any special sizes for extra large sizes Dress Forms, also OEM your brand dress forms, worldwide shipping, and Wolf Dress Form repair.

PGM full line  Dress Forms are all USA standard sized, natural body shaped with realistic buttock and collopsible shoulders, excellent for professional fashion designer, fashion education, fashion industry, fashion students.....

Below are some measuring key point reference to help you on how to measure PGM Dress Form:

1. Neck Base
    To find the base of the neck, have the person tilt his or her head forward. You'll see a knobby bone in back ,
    round the measure tape at this point to make full circle.

2. Neck Middle
    At 1" above Neck Base, measure around.

3. Shoulder
    From side neck point (where the neck meets shoulder) to shoulder point (the upper arm bone).

4. X-Shoulder
    At backside of body, from one shoulder point to another shoulder point.

5. X-Back
    4" down from Back Neck Point, measuring from edge to edge (reference image).

6. F-Chest
    1" down from Front Neck Point, measuring from edge to edge (reference image).

7. Bust Around Neck:
    Put the measuring tape at one bust point, around back neck to another bust point (apex).

8. Bust
    Measuring full circle around bust points (apex) and back point (see image). Please note: back point location
    will be different depending on the body size.

9. Upper Bust
    About 3" - 4" above Bust Point, measuring circle around back point ( see image). Please note: 3" -4", or
    more  will be different depending on the body size.

10. Apex to Apex
      Measuring from bust point to bust point.

11. Dart
      At waist line, measuring from central line to princess line.

12. Waist
       Measuring full circle around waist points.

13. Abdome-4":
      4" down from waist point, measuring full circle. Please note: 4" or... will be different depending on the body
      size.

14. Hip
       8" down from waist points, measuring full circle.  Please note: 8" or..... will be different depending on the 
       body size.

15.  Total Crotch
       From front waist point , go under to back waist point.

16. Max Thigh
      1" down from crotch,  measuring around.

17. Middle Thigh
       Measuring around from the middle of  Max Thigh and Knee.

18. Knee
       Measuring around knee.

19. Calf
       Measuring around calf.

20. Ankle
      Measuring around ankle.

21. Inseam
      Running vertically down the  inside of the leg, measuring from crotch to the ankle.

22. Outseam
       Measuring vertically down from the outside of the leg, from waist line to ankle.

Make sure the measurements are accurate. If you haven't already, mark the center line of the dress form with tape. This will help you keep your draping even across the body. If you already have an idea of the lines of your garment, such as the shape of the neckline, you can add those with tape, as well. This helps keep your draping on track.

You should have a design idea in mind when you get to the dress form. A sketch or reference photograph will give you an idea of how you need to manipulate the fabric. Of course, you can also just play with the fabric and use its behavior as the basis of your design, but less experienced designers will be less frustrated when they have something to work off of.

You might want to start with fitting muslin to avoid wasting good fabric, but keep in mind that different types and weights of fabric behave very differently when draped, so choose a muslin weight that is close to the weight of your fabric.

Most fabrics will require a foundation piece of some sort to support the weight of the fabric. You can skip this step if you're working with a very sturdy fabric. If your main fabric is sheer, be sure to choose a fabric that's close to your skin tone or one that matches the main fabric if you don't want to see the foundation fabric when the garment is worn.

The foundation piece should be fitted to the dress form. (If you've constructed a bodice sloper based on your measurements, that's an excellent place to start!) If you have a basic idea of the design details you want to include (such as a sweetheart neckline or off-the-shoulder sleeves), be sure the foundation piece reflects that, since it will make Step 5 much easier.

Make sure you have enough fabric to cover the area. You can always cut the extra off later. Draping is usually done in sections: front bodice, back bodice, front skirt, back skirt. Choose a spot where the folds are most prevalent and begin there. Your sketch or photograph will come in handy at this point.

Trial and error coupled with patience is the name of the game. If you find yourself getting frustrated, take a step back and walk away for a bit. Use chalk to mark any additional seam lines or darts.

Once you're satisfied with the draping, use a contrasting color thread to baste the fabric to the foundation piece (or to itself if you're not using a foundation piece). Go slowly so you won't miss any folds in the process. This will allow you to remove the pins without undoing all of your hard work.

The raw edges of your draping should be hidden in the seams. At this point, you can remove your basting stitches.

Measure your bra step 1, 2, 3, get to know your bra & cup size
Band size = under bust measurement  + 5"

Measure your bra step 1, 2, 3, get to know your bra & cup size

Step 1:

Chest measurement (#1 in the picture). Measure your chest wearing your regular, unpadded bra. Place the measuring tape around your chest and under your arms. Hold the tape measure snugly, but not too tightly, and level to the floor. Stand up straight and breathe normally. This measurement is your chest measurement. Since band sizes come only in even numbers, round up an odd measurement. For example, if the band measurement is 39 inches, then round up to 40 inches.

Step 2: 
Rib cage measurement (#2 in the picture). Place the measuring tape around your rib cage under your breasts. Hold the tape measure snugly, but not too tightly, and level to the floor. Stand up straight and breathe normally. It is important to measure only the rib cage and not any breast tissue. If your breasts are sagging even a little bit in your current bra you should lift them up to ensure an accurate measurement. This is your rib cage measurement.

Step 3: 
Bust measurement (#3 in the picture). Still wearing your bra, bring the tape measure around the fullest part of your breasts, right over the nipples. Make sure the tape measure is level around your body and don’t pull it too tight. If the bra you are wearing does not position your breasts like you want them to be use the bra straps to pull them up to their ideal spot before measuring. Obviously this is not possible to do by yourself so enlist some help. This is your bust measurement.

Band size = under bust measurement  + 5"

Cup Size (method A): Subtract your rib band size from your bust measurement (#3). This will determine your cup size, as shown in our chart below. So if the band measurement is 40 and bust measurement is 45, the difference is 5 inches, which means your cup size is E and your bra size is 40E.

 Cup Size (method B):

For skirts we generally only need the waist size (G), hip measurement (I), and the distance vertically between waist and hip (E to F).

For jackets we need the following measurements: Bust (H), waist size (G), back width (P to Q), nape to waist (A to B), chest (N to O), shoulder (K to L), top arm (W), armhole depth (A to X), front shoulder to waist (Y to C), sleeve length (L to M)

H - bust. Measure round the body at the fullest part of the bust, making sure that the tape measure is parallel to the floor.

G - waist size. After taking this measurement, tie a piece of string firmly round the waist. This allows vertical measurements to be taken more accurately.

I - hips. Measure the widest part. This is generally between 15cm and 21cm down from the waistline.

P to Q - back width. Measure 15cm down from the neck bone at the centre back and then across the back from where one arm meets the body to where the other arm meets the body.

N to O - chest. Measure the chest 7cm down from the neck point at the centre front (armhole to armhole).

J - neck. Measure the base of the neck touching the front collar bone.

K to L - shoulder. Measure from the neck to the shoulder bone.

W - top arm. With the arm bent, measure the bicep.

V - wrist. Make this measurement quite loose and comfortable.

A to B - nape to waist. Measure from the neck bone at the centre back to the string tied around the waist.

Y to C - front shoulder to waist. Measure from the centre of the front shoulder, over the bust point (nipple), to the waist.

A to X - armhole depth. This is generally a standard measurement, but if the arm or shoulder is well developed, this measurement is well worth having. Place a tape measure or piece of string across the back under the arms and measure down from the neck bone to the centre of the tape.

E to F - waist to hip. This is also generally a standard measurement, but, again, it's worth having. Measure from the string tied around the waist down to the fullest part of the hips.

C to D - waist to desired length of garment (applicable for certain skirt designs and for CP1 coats).

T to U - inside leg.

R to S - waist to floor. Measure from the waist to the floor at the centre back.

1 to 2 - body rise. Sit on a hard chair and have someone else take the measurement at the side from your waist to the chair.

L to M - sleeve length. Place the hand on the hip so the arm is bent. Measure from the shoulder bone, over the elnbow and down to the wristbone to where you want the sleeve to end.

By Jed Phoenix

For the Self Tailoring strap, the Self Tailoring laced and the Twist of English Empire trousers, we generally only need the following measurements as a guide: Trouser waist (H), seat (I), body rise (R to S) and inside leg (T to U).

For jackets, coats and waistcoats, the following are required: Chest (F), front chest (between the two red dots just above the chest line. The front chest is a horizontal line 18cm down from K, and from where the left arm meets the body to where the right arm meets the body), natural waist length (A to B), half back (D to E), natural waist (G), neck (J), shoulder (K to L), sleeve length (L to M), wrist (V), top arm (W), scye depth (A to X).
Any questions, please feel free to contact us or come and visit us at one of the many events we attend around the country to be measured by Jed in person.

G - natural waist. Tie a piece of string around the natural waistline. This makes vertical measurements more accurate.

A to B - natural waist length. Measure from the bone at the nape of the neck to the waistline.

A to C - desired length of garment. This measurement is generally applicable to CP1 coats.

D to E - half across back. Measure from centre back (15cm down from nape) to the position of the sleeve seam at the back scye (armhole).

F - chest. Place the tape under the arms and around the body at chest level. Make sure the arms are down and the tape measure passes over the shoulder blades when taking this measurement.

H - trouser waist position. This is generally 4cm down from the natural waistline.

I - seat. Measure around the fullest part of the seat, usually 21cm down from the waistline.

J - neck. Measure round the base of the neck quite loosely.

K to L - shoulder. Measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder bone.

L to M - sleeve length for one piece sleeve. With the hand on the hip, so the arm is bent, measure from the shoulder bone to where you want the sleeve to end.

P to Q - side seam length for trousers. Measure from the waist to the heel seam of shoe.

R to S - body rise. Whilst sitting on a hard chair, have someone measure from the waist to the top of the seat of the chair.

T to U - inside leg. Measure from high in the crutch to the heel seam of shoe.

V - wrist.

W - top arm. Measure whilst the arm is bent.

A to X - scye depth. This is generally a standard measurement, but if the arm or shoulder is well developed, this measurement is well worth having. Place a tape measure or piece of string across the back under the arms and measure down from the neck bone to the centre of the tape.

By Jed Phoenix

1. Length (Base of Neck to Base of Tail)

2. Girth (Widest Part of chest)

3.Girth (Widest Part of chest)

4. Waist

5. Leg Length of Jumper/PJ's required - Short (4"), long (14") or none (*If a specific leg length is required please see next diagram for measure guide)

6. Style of neck (Polo or Crew)